West introduced denim for his fall’17 ready-to-wear collection, and it looked cool.
The 15-minute runway show took place on Wednesday, February 15, at NYC’s Pier 59 Studios around 3:25 p.m. ET. The show started 20 minutes late (not uncommon during fashion week). Unlike his massive Roosevelt Island show of last September, Kanye West kept his Yeezy season 5 fashion show top secret and ultra-exclusive.
The venue’s security was super-tight, and the front row was packed with the 39-year-old rapper’s family and friends. After last year’s Roosevelt Island show, the rapper kept it low-key. “Kanye tried to keep as much media out as possible, and the crowd was mostly fashion buyers and Kanye’s friends and family.” When the show was finished, the Grammy winner didn’t even come out to take a bow.
West’s wife, Kim Kardashian, sat front row next to Vogue’s Anna Wintour. The Keeping Up With the Kardashians star, 36, went braless in an all-purple ensemble complete with a coordinating puffer jacket. Other celeb attendees included Carine Roitfeld, Kim’s sister Kylie Jenner, Tyga, Hailey Baldwin, La La Anthony, Zoe Kravitz, Pusha T and A$AP Ferg.
Still, West doesn’t like to do anything predictable as he rewrote the show formula presenting his collection via giant live video projections before the models did a finale loop. It was a show for the Snap and Instagram generation — and not just because the show included models like Sofia Richie and Luka Sabbat. Through projecting all the looks on a four-sided pillar, there was literally not a bad seat in the house. Everyone in the front row to the people standing in the back got to see the same amount of detail. A useful way to size up the collection, and considering how many people held their phones up as the looks showed on screen, maybe West knows what the audience is really looking for. A remix of The Dream song “The Bed” was played throughout: the original song by The Dream is actually a cover of one of the same name by J. Holliday. The new version was much louder, darker, and Kanye-ish.
For Yeezy 5, West introduced denim: high of rise, loose-ish of fit, and tucked into knee-high boots in a way we haven’t seen in a while. Some trends can be intimidating, but we’ll definitely be trying this. Trucker jackets, washed denim, flannel shirts and Yeezy’s trademark woodland camos were prevalent in Carhartt-inspired work jackets and fatigue pants. Reflective fireman’s coats and genuine Gore–TEX outerwear further expanded on the Yeezy oeuvre. And he launched a sneaker: the chunky running style sneakers Kanye has been wearing recently were part of the show.
But the biggest development is the branding aspect of this label, West is now embracing it stamping some sweatshirts with Calabasas (where the Kardashian family has homes) -the super-hyped Calabasas adidas returned in several iterations, including one look with a coordinating top-, others with Lost Hills, the name of a collaborative album he’s making with Drake, and still more with adidas’s signature triple stripes. Those pieces are bound to sell like wild fire, but the logo free-ness of earlier Yeezy collections was a key distinguishing—and elevating—feature.
Yeezy featured Model Halima Aden (who made news last year for wearing a hajib during the Miss Minnesota USA beauty pageant). Halima stood out amongst a diverse group of her model peers in a long faux fur coat and her own hijab.